Made by a Fabricista: Valentine Slip by Sew Chic Patterns
It has been a few weeks since I blogged last and I feel so bad! I have been quite busy at work and in my personal life, that blogging had to be put on hold for a little while. If you read my last post, featuring an interview with Laura Nash from Sew Chic Patterns, I mentioned that I would be making the Valentine Slip. I also mentioned that I was tearing up my sewing room because I lost the fabric I bought specifically for the slip! It took me a few days, but I found it pushed behind a pile of fabric in the closet. (Sound familiar?)
I was really excited to start this because a few weeks ago, Laura was posting photos of different ways to make the slip on her Facebook page. I had been wanting to make a slip for a long time and on a trip to Portland, OR I stopped by one of the infamous fabric stores in the area. I found a great nude lightweight jersey knit and a black mesh with a very tight weave. Both were excellent quality, but still lightweight enough to be used as a slip. I also picked up some pretty lace trims in a few different colors. At this point I had not heard of Sew Chic Patterns, so I was buying these items in hopes of figuring it out on my own. Low and behold two weeks later, I met Laura from Sew Chic and she shared her Valentine Slip pattern with me!
Because I had purchased the materials before the pattern, I had to work with what I had. The pattern comes with two versions: view A showcases lace at the bust and around the hemline. View B features a pieced bust and ruffled hemline. I cut out size 12 for the top and graded it to 14 for the hips. The pattern is made for a B cup. While I am not a B cup, I cut it from a B (I'm not really sure why I did, I just did!) The pattern comes with a guide to adjust the cup size. (When I made the black slip, I adjusted the cup size and it fit even better than the nude slip!)
I decided to make the view B because I wanted to add 1 1/2" trim around the top of the cup. I omitted the top piece from the cup and replaced it with a 1 1/2" lace trim. So I guess you're wondering how I did this? It was a little unfortunate because the trim was not as wide as the piece I omitted. It was only about a 1/2" or so off, so I wasn't too concerned.
After constructing the cup itself, I attached the trim to the center front, making sure to line up the fabric along the design of the lace. I serged the edges of all knit pieces to give it a clean look.
I stitched to about 1" or so before the top because I wanted to pivot the lace trim to go up the top of the cup. I couldn't figure out any other way to do it, without have an unfinished edge and I really didn't want that. I folded a dart in the trim at the center front and attached the trim to the rest of the cup. Below, you can see a finished center front cup piece.
Here is a finished cup. I serged the cup seam also, although I wasn't going to. I hate when seams hit right at the bust and show through other pieces of clothing. If I wanted to change this in future slips, I think I would try to draft the cup in one piece. One quick note: When you add the lace to the second cup, be sure the lace design matches up to the other cup. Everything should be symmetrical!
After both cups are constructed, I stitched them together at center front. I didn't alter anything else in the pattern, so scroll down to check out the finished product!
I used pre-made lingerie straps that we had at Fabric Mart a few years ago. (Does anyone remember the strap bundles we were selling!?) Of course I didn't have very many basic colors in the collection I had, but I managed to find two cream straps. One strap is a slightly different color than the other, but who's going to see that? I used a zig-zag stitch to attach the straps to the front and back of the slip.
I'm really happy with the way it turned out. I even had a chance to wear it earlier this week and it was perfect! The bust seams did not show through my dress either.
I did not attach lace the hemline because I did not have enough to go around it. (Oops!) After wearing it this week, I realized that it was a little longer than I liked. It was almost as long as the dress I wore, which fell right around my knee. I think I may go back and shorten it an inch or two because I am afraid it would peak out of my dress.
I used a black stretch mesh knit with a really tight mesh weave. It was sturdy enough to hold it's shape. I fell short again because the lace trim I purchased was 6 1/2" wide rather than the minimum requirement of 7". I also had adjusted the cup size, so the width of the lace did not exactly work out the way 7" would have. Thankfully, I was able to make it work, I just stretched the lace a little more when stitching the cup together.
I was really excited to start this because a few weeks ago, Laura was posting photos of different ways to make the slip on her Facebook page. I had been wanting to make a slip for a long time and on a trip to Portland, OR I stopped by one of the infamous fabric stores in the area. I found a great nude lightweight jersey knit and a black mesh with a very tight weave. Both were excellent quality, but still lightweight enough to be used as a slip. I also picked up some pretty lace trims in a few different colors. At this point I had not heard of Sew Chic Patterns, so I was buying these items in hopes of figuring it out on my own. Low and behold two weeks later, I met Laura from Sew Chic and she shared her Valentine Slip pattern with me!
I decided to make the view B because I wanted to add 1 1/2" trim around the top of the cup. I omitted the top piece from the cup and replaced it with a 1 1/2" lace trim. So I guess you're wondering how I did this? It was a little unfortunate because the trim was not as wide as the piece I omitted. It was only about a 1/2" or so off, so I wasn't too concerned.
After constructing the cup itself, I attached the trim to the center front, making sure to line up the fabric along the design of the lace. I serged the edges of all knit pieces to give it a clean look.
I stitched to about 1" or so before the top because I wanted to pivot the lace trim to go up the top of the cup. I couldn't figure out any other way to do it, without have an unfinished edge and I really didn't want that. I folded a dart in the trim at the center front and attached the trim to the rest of the cup. Below, you can see a finished center front cup piece.
Here is a finished cup. I serged the cup seam also, although I wasn't going to. I hate when seams hit right at the bust and show through other pieces of clothing. If I wanted to change this in future slips, I think I would try to draft the cup in one piece. One quick note: When you add the lace to the second cup, be sure the lace design matches up to the other cup. Everything should be symmetrical!
I'm really happy with the way it turned out. I even had a chance to wear it earlier this week and it was perfect! The bust seams did not show through my dress either.
When finishing the seam across the back, I used a wide zig-zag stitch similar to what you see on RTW bras.
I enjoyed making this slip so much, that I made a black version too!
I used a black stretch mesh knit with a really tight mesh weave. It was sturdy enough to hold it's shape. I fell short again because the lace trim I purchased was 6 1/2" wide rather than the minimum requirement of 7". I also had adjusted the cup size, so the width of the lace did not exactly work out the way 7" would have. Thankfully, I was able to make it work, I just stretched the lace a little more when stitching the cup together.
I could see this slip pattern being used for more than just a slip. Lengthen the hemline to create a hip hugging gown. Shorten the hemline to make a camisole. Even try different fabrics to make whatever your heart desires! I have not done a lot of work with trimming before so it was a lot of fun trying new products. I have to say, I am a lace trim addict now. I want to put it on everything! Have fun making this slip, the possibilities are endless!
If you would like to purchase your own Valentine Slip pattern, click HERE.
~ Julie
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Posted on August 03 2014
The slips are beautiful! Well done :) And I COMPLETELY understand about losing the fabric behind other fabric – been there, done that LOL!
You had strap bundles for sale? I missed that completely.
Looking forward to the next sew-along whenever it works out for you.
Beautiful and romantic. Wish I had bought some of those strap bundles!
I love both slips! They aren't worn much anymore and they are hard to find in stores and online. I love the vintage, lacy, lingerie and your creations remind me so much of the eras past when undergarments were as beautiful as the outer garments. Lovely, Lovely.
Such beautiful slips you made here! Really nice work, love how delicate and feminine they look.
They turned out really nice, and nude is the perfect color to go under everything! Love it. Thanks for sharing.