Made By a Fabricista: The Seven Day Coat
Hi Fashionistas!!!
I have missed you. I have been a busy little sewing bee. Earlier this year when I started thinking about my bucket list, making a winter coat was one of the items on my list. And that is what I have been working on for the last seven days....
When I started thinking about coat making, I had a structured coat in mind. I have always been fascinated with the structure that goes inside a tailored jacket or coat, so I decided I wanted shoulder pads, I wanted hair canvas and pad stitching, I wanted sleeve headings, I wanted it all!!!
I chose to go with a design that was a bit millitary-esque. I exaggerated the neckline for a more dramatic look and used custom-made shoulder pads to add structure to the garment. I also used hair canvas throughout the neckline to make sure it would stand up. The fabric is a yummy 100_ wool melton coating fabric from Fabric Mart. You can check out their gorgeous selection of wool fabric HERE.
I really am in love with this neckline...It's oh-so-majestic!
If you look at my inspiration pic, you will see that my version is very similar to it, with minor variations. Since time was of the essence, I decided to take a ready made pattern and modify it instead of making my own pattern from scratch.
The pattern I used as a base is Vogue 8346 view A, and modified the pattern accordingly to match my inspiration. The main pattern alterations I made included changing the front bodice, and the collar. I also lengthened the coat by an inch and a half. Of course I made a muslin. I actually ended up with three alterations.
Moving on to one of my favorite things about this coat... Not only does it have the gorgeous stand up collar that I wanted, it also converts into a gorgeous shawl collar. I mean... two looks in one?! That's what I'm talking about!
I styled this coat with one of my favorite cowl neck chunky sweaters, a classic double stand of vintage pearls, My favorite skinny jeans and the boots with the furrrrr!!!!!
And the coat looks just as nice with the buttons undone. It's such a classic pointy shawl collar. It's not a true shawl collar because I did preserve the original collar from the center back seam to the shoulder seam.
But no coat is complete with a fabulous lining..... so I lined this coat with a pretty silky fabric just like I did on my wool cape last month!
This was my first time making in-seam pockets. In-seam pockets are actually really easy to sew! I am not sure why I was shying away from them!
I am just loving the back of this coat. The seams pressed beautifully. The fabric was a dream to work with. The lining was so beautiful, it made me want to get up and dance and sing. (And y'all know I cant sing.)
One of the reasons I love sewing so much is that you never stop learning! Here are the new techniques I learned while working on this project:
- How to set in a fabulous sleeve (I combined 3 techniques to get the perfect set in sleeve)
- How to create custom shoulder pads
- The hybrid method of tailoring that combined fusibles and padstitching.
- I need an industrial machine (Honey, are you listening?!!!!)
Overall, this was a really amazing project. I hope that you enjoyed reading this. Leave me a comment and let me know what you think about it! I will be doing a "Behind The Seams" blog post on the making of this garment, so you can come into my workshop and take a virtual tour of all that went into making this coat!
And until next time, happy sewing!
-XOXO
Vatsla at Fashion Behind The Seam
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Posted on November 19 2015
This is absolutely beautiful!!!!
Gorgeous coat! I can't wait for your in depth post on the construction details.
Perfect. Just perfect.
Very beautiful and styled in the same manner!
Your coat is fabulous and you look beautiful!
Gorgeous! I'd love to see the detailed post! That wool melton is beautiful too! Great job.
nice coat
really love it :)
Thanks Kisha!
Thanks Becca.. I cant wait to publish the "Behind The Seams" post…
Thank you!!!!
Thank you Tasha!
Thank you Erica!
I'm in LOVE with this coat! Absolutely beautiful! You did an amazing job! Love the lining. And honey, those BOOTS! Yes!!!
Thank you Elizabeth! The detailed post is coming soon!!
Thank you Baju!
Thanks Anita! Those boots have been hiding in my closet for way too long!
Vatsla, the finished coat is spectacular and you look ravishing in it. Eagerly awaiting your detailed post- I love the inside pictures almost as much as the outside!
Thank you Julie!