Fabricista Guest Post: Sewing some separates for Spring.

Hello fellow sewists! My name is Bianca Kim and I’m so thrilled to share these makes with you as this is my first time getting to be a Fabricista! I know I’m not the only one who’s addicted to buying fabric from Fabric Mart. I’ve been machine sewing for the past 17 years and continue to fall more in love with it as I get older.

For this project, I knew that I wanted to make some separates that could easily mix in with both my wardrobe for work and for life. I also knew that I wanted to connect with my Korean heritage by making some modern hanbok garments. And voila! Sara at SewTherapy.net has created the perfect patterns for these types of items and more!

Lately, I’ve noticed that I’m missing a light and easy sweater in my wardrobe that can go with everything. So, I was really happy to find this “Gray Heathered Rayon/Lycra Jersey Knit”. My idea to make the hanbok jacket out of this soft and airy fabric turned out to be just what I was needing! I modified the pattern and extended the length of the arms to my preferred place that hangs just over my hands.

The jacket can be cinched tight by using both the inner and outer ties. Or it can just hang open!

This very finely-ribbed fabric feels so nice against my skin and is wonderful as a layering piece to one’s outfit because despite the fabric being so light and thin, it is surprisingly warm.

For the hanbok skirt, I was thrilled to use this “Black/Antique Red/Alabaster 100% Polyester Floral Double Border Over Horizontal Diamond Stripe Print Georgette” because the colors on this print will match with so many tops that I already own!

Due to the fact that the design is mirrored along the selvages and the width of the fabric is 58”, I was able to cut straight down the middle and have enough fabric to accommodate all of the knife pleating that’s used in this skirt’s design. Ultimately though, I wasn’t very thrilled about using the design as the waistband. So, I snagged some of this navy shiny satin from my stash that looks very similar to the “Steel Blue Rayon/Nylon Shimmer Satin” on the Fabric Mart site.

Though the georgette isn’t quite a crepe texture, it does have a similar feel and it’s weighted enough to have this beautiful drape, even with the knife pleats. I was a little concerned about the skirt becoming too bulky and was pleasantly surprised at the result. Because the skirt wraps over itself, I’m also not very concerned about the translucence of the skirt, though I will also be wearing come shorts under it for comfort.

The hanbok skirt is wonderful because it’s virtually a one-size-fits-many item. One of the ties slides through a buttonhole in the seam and wraps around the body to connect with the other tie into a lovely knot.

Similar closures are used for the jacket, as well. Depending on the preferred look that you’re going for, you can closely close the jacket by using both sets or leave a little room by using the outer ties.

When sewing the skirt, I serged the edges to prevent frays. When connecting the skirt panels I followed Sara’s instructions to use flat-felled seams. I was able to sew the skirt up in a day and the jacket was completed in two. Some challenges that I faced with the jacket are that I have never used this tissue-y of a fabric before this project and so when I made some mistakes that needed to be ripped out, I almost went insane from trying to figure out which threads were the fabric and which were needing to be cut. The thread I used from gutterman was EXACTLY the same shade of gray. I also realized that I needed to use my walking foot for this fabric because even my teflon foot was causing the fabric to ripple when being sewed together.

These two pieces are going to be strong daily/weekly staples in my life and I’m so happy to have them. I just love sewing so much and feel so honored to be able to share these makes on this platform! If you want to see more of what I’m doing you can find me at 2 places on instagram (@freshbiscuits_ and @biskitsfits) and on tiktok @freshbiscuitsbk. Being this intentional with deciding what to make to add to my wardrobe has been extremely inspiring and I will definitely continue down this path! I wish you all the best and can’t wait to see what you make next.

BIANCA | @freshbiscuits_